I’m about half way through the book I am reading ‘Practical dinghy cruising’ by P Constantine. It’s really made me think – I knew it would! I originally mentioned it here: http://arwensmeanderings.blogspot.com/2011/02/ahthe-sweet-smell-of-fresh-coffee-room.html
There isn’t any order to the points below – they are just things I’ve scribbled to myself to think more deeply about.
Firstly tents! Paul made a very good point that it can take up to two hours to sort out a tent, catering and sleeping arrangements at the end of a long sailing day. Securing the sails, erecting the tent, changing clothes, assembling the galley and then sorting out bedding; cooking a meal and then washing up – all take time and a high degree of planning.
This is true and I need to develop a more systematic system than the one I did in Salcombe last summer. I need to have systems of Tupperware boxes with different things in. I always think that Steve Earley with Spartina has it really well buttoned down. Visit his blog and peruse his posts. The man is one highly organised camp cruiser. Go to http://logofspartina.blogspot.com/
Then there is the issue of buoyancy. John has plenty designed into a navigator......but I always worry that my hatches might leak....don’t know why – I just do! So maybe I need to put in some additional buoyancy. Fenders are useful additional buoyancy and of course they double nicely as hull props for propping up the boat when you allow the water to ebb away and you decide to beach camp on board! However, these fenders have to be well secured and almost immovable in the hull if they are to act as additional buoyancy and they must of course be below the water level in the hull during a capsize so that they provide the additional lift. I need to take another look at this issue! Mine are definitely not that well secured!
I need to revisit the downhauls on my centreboard and rudder. Originally they were shock cord. I used this because if either hit bottom, there was enough ‘give’ for them to rise upwards slightly. However, I found that the shock-cord stretched whilst under way and the centreboard would rise. The rudder was the worst offender – rising upwards quite rapidly. This made steering difficult and placed huge strains on the rudder. So.....I replaced the downhauls with 5mm rope – it held them in place nicely....but now I’m worried – if I accidently hit bottom whilst creek crawling.......they won’t give or bounce back....so I need to look at this one again – will a thicker shock-cord be better?
Paul posed some really good questions about deciding how safe your boat is. Arwen passed the RNLI small boat safety check with flyhing colours two years ago. She scores highly on this website on which you can complete an online questionnaire which helps give you an idea of how safe your boat is – it’s fun to fill in and actually quite a useful reflection exercise – go to http://smallcraftadvisor.com/sca-seaworthiness-test
Anyway, questions posed by Paul included:
• In a capsize can the rudder or tiller detach themselves and float away?
• Will the centreboard drop back in the centre board case and be difficult to extract when the boat is floating on its side?
• Will any gratings or floor boards float away?
• Is the tiller firmly attached to the rudder?
• Are rudder fittings bolted to the transom rather than just screwed?
• Are oarlocks metal and firmly attached to the boat?
• Are cleats bolted through the deck rather than screwed to it?
Um! May need to go and check one or two things......I sense that ‘to do’ list is growing again!
The one that made me really sit up and think is along the same lines as some questions posed by Osbert a few months ago. Can the boat sail itself?
Wow! I’ve never tried. I always sit with tiller in hand and I’m happy to potter along but actually, Osbert, Steve in Spartina and believe it or not Joshua Slocum himself – have all commented about how their boats can sail themselves for short periods of time.
Paul, in this book makes the point like this.......
“The way the boat sails is of prime importance. Speed is not really the issue with cruising; it is far more useful to have a degree of comfort when sailing for a sustained period of time. Going more slowly does not mean sailing inefficiently, it is more to do with matching the sail area to the undertaking. The activity is ‘sail sightseeing’ and during sailing, it is usual to engage in a variety of domestic activities, changing clothes, eating snacks, taking photographs and checking pilotage details to mention just a few. You do not want to have to be constantly jumping up and down to keep the boat from capsizing whilst occupied in this way.........
..............the reaction of the boat to gusts of wind should be predictable, steady and smooth. It should not be so tender that it instantly falls on its ear with each puff of breeze; there should be plenty of time to react. It helps if the boat will gently follow the wind in the puffs but still be easy to steer and not become so ‘hard mouthed’ that she will luff irrespective of what you do. Here is a relevant question....could the boat be sailed with the sheets held firmly in jamb cleats or with the helm impeder almost constantly engaged without undue risk of capsize?”
Got that ‘Homer’ feeling again.....doh! And there I was as a novice sailor hoving to every time I wanted to do something – hell no wonder I don’t seem to make much mileage!
Soooo much to think about! This sailing malarkey is complicated stuff!
Steve
There isn’t any order to the points below – they are just things I’ve scribbled to myself to think more deeply about.
Firstly tents! Paul made a very good point that it can take up to two hours to sort out a tent, catering and sleeping arrangements at the end of a long sailing day. Securing the sails, erecting the tent, changing clothes, assembling the galley and then sorting out bedding; cooking a meal and then washing up – all take time and a high degree of planning.
This is true and I need to develop a more systematic system than the one I did in Salcombe last summer. I need to have systems of Tupperware boxes with different things in. I always think that Steve Earley with Spartina has it really well buttoned down. Visit his blog and peruse his posts. The man is one highly organised camp cruiser. Go to http://logofspartina.blogspot.com/
Then there is the issue of buoyancy. John has plenty designed into a navigator......but I always worry that my hatches might leak....don’t know why – I just do! So maybe I need to put in some additional buoyancy. Fenders are useful additional buoyancy and of course they double nicely as hull props for propping up the boat when you allow the water to ebb away and you decide to beach camp on board! However, these fenders have to be well secured and almost immovable in the hull if they are to act as additional buoyancy and they must of course be below the water level in the hull during a capsize so that they provide the additional lift. I need to take another look at this issue! Mine are definitely not that well secured!
I need to revisit the downhauls on my centreboard and rudder. Originally they were shock cord. I used this because if either hit bottom, there was enough ‘give’ for them to rise upwards slightly. However, I found that the shock-cord stretched whilst under way and the centreboard would rise. The rudder was the worst offender – rising upwards quite rapidly. This made steering difficult and placed huge strains on the rudder. So.....I replaced the downhauls with 5mm rope – it held them in place nicely....but now I’m worried – if I accidently hit bottom whilst creek crawling.......they won’t give or bounce back....so I need to look at this one again – will a thicker shock-cord be better?
Paul posed some really good questions about deciding how safe your boat is. Arwen passed the RNLI small boat safety check with flyhing colours two years ago. She scores highly on this website on which you can complete an online questionnaire which helps give you an idea of how safe your boat is – it’s fun to fill in and actually quite a useful reflection exercise – go to http://smallcraftadvisor.com/sca-seaworthiness-test
Anyway, questions posed by Paul included:
• In a capsize can the rudder or tiller detach themselves and float away?
• Will the centreboard drop back in the centre board case and be difficult to extract when the boat is floating on its side?
• Will any gratings or floor boards float away?
• Is the tiller firmly attached to the rudder?
• Are rudder fittings bolted to the transom rather than just screwed?
• Are oarlocks metal and firmly attached to the boat?
• Are cleats bolted through the deck rather than screwed to it?
Um! May need to go and check one or two things......I sense that ‘to do’ list is growing again!
The one that made me really sit up and think is along the same lines as some questions posed by Osbert a few months ago. Can the boat sail itself?
Wow! I’ve never tried. I always sit with tiller in hand and I’m happy to potter along but actually, Osbert, Steve in Spartina and believe it or not Joshua Slocum himself – have all commented about how their boats can sail themselves for short periods of time.
Paul, in this book makes the point like this.......
“The way the boat sails is of prime importance. Speed is not really the issue with cruising; it is far more useful to have a degree of comfort when sailing for a sustained period of time. Going more slowly does not mean sailing inefficiently, it is more to do with matching the sail area to the undertaking. The activity is ‘sail sightseeing’ and during sailing, it is usual to engage in a variety of domestic activities, changing clothes, eating snacks, taking photographs and checking pilotage details to mention just a few. You do not want to have to be constantly jumping up and down to keep the boat from capsizing whilst occupied in this way.........
..............the reaction of the boat to gusts of wind should be predictable, steady and smooth. It should not be so tender that it instantly falls on its ear with each puff of breeze; there should be plenty of time to react. It helps if the boat will gently follow the wind in the puffs but still be easy to steer and not become so ‘hard mouthed’ that she will luff irrespective of what you do. Here is a relevant question....could the boat be sailed with the sheets held firmly in jamb cleats or with the helm impeder almost constantly engaged without undue risk of capsize?”
Got that ‘Homer’ feeling again.....doh! And there I was as a novice sailor hoving to every time I wanted to do something – hell no wonder I don’t seem to make much mileage!
Soooo much to think about! This sailing malarkey is complicated stuff!
Steve
6 comments:
Hi Steve
Bouyancy - John's boats generally have huge amounts of bouyancy. I'd suggest that rather than worrying about tying in fenders you see if the hatches leak!
On Sunday I opened the hatches in my Walkabout for the first time since immediately after the launch last May. I know I should have left them open for ventilation, prevent mould etc, but I kept on forgetting until the tarpaulin was tied down, or else I was late and needed to get home. Any way, opened them all on Sunday, and a dry as a bone - the sawdust was still dusty, and the smell was of preservative not mould - hooray!
I've never capsized Scratch, intentionally or otherwise, but I have had a fair amount of water in the cockpit from breakers coming over the transom when beaching. So looks like my joints are water tight and the hatch covers are good.
I'd say test your hatches before making more work for yourself!
Rudder downhaul - I have the downhaul in a cam cleat near at hand so I can quickly release it. I believe you can also get cleats that will automatically release if you hit something.
Cheers
Osbert
Hi Steve,
Regarding the rudder down-haul issue, why don't you fit an auto-release cam cleat? Google it if you don't know what it is. It keeps your rudder down except when it strikes something. I sail on a lagoon with lots of shallow sandbanks. Would not know what I would have done without it.
Cheers
Marius
hey gents - thanks for tips and advice - will definitely check hatches - I know one is warped and will leak badly! And will look out for cam cleat - nice idea guys - thanks
steve
I know it's only a fun thing but I do take issue with the safety survey, why does a Bermudian sloop rate higher than a gaff yawl?
Why do Stay Lock or Norse rate higher than a swage (I personally know of a sloop which lost it's rig through the failure our a stay lock type fitting) and it makes no allowance for a low stressed gaff rigg compared to a high aspect modern Bermudian.
I could go on and on, but the point here is these superficial views might give people a false sense of security in them and their boats.
The only way to be safe is to understand your boat, your self and your capabilities pushing the limits as far and as fast as is sensible - that's what you have been doing in this pages it's the only right way to go
BB you are asking the wrong guy here - i have no idea what any of what you said means not because you haven't been reudite and knowledgeable but because I have no idea as a newbie sailor about half of what you said.
i do understand the point you are making though which is afair one - y ou have to exercise some judgement when doing such surveys and know your own boat well - good sound advice!
cheers
Steve
BB you are asking the wrong guy here - i have no idea what any of what you said means not because you haven't been reudite and knowledgeable but because I have no idea as a newbie sailor about half of what you said.
i do understand the point you are making though which is afair one - y ou have to exercise some judgement when doing such surveys and know your own boat well - good sound advice!
cheers
Steve
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