Arwen's meanderings

Hi everyone and welcome to my dinghy cruising blog about my John Welsford designed 'navigator' named Arwen. Built over three years, Arwen was launched in August 2007. She is a standing lug yawl 14' 6" in length. This blog records our dinghy cruising voyages together around the coastal waters of SW England.
Arwen has an associated YouTube channel so visit www.YouTube.com/c/plymouthwelshboy to find our most recent cruises and click subscribe.
On this blog you will find posts about dinghy cruising locations, accounts of our voyages, maintenance tips and 'How to's' ranging from rigging standing lug sails and building galley boxes to using 'anchor buddies' and creating 'pilotage notes'. I hope you find something that inspires you to get out on the water in your boat. Drop us a comment and happy sailing.
Steve and Arwen

Tuesday, 19 November 2019

Bits and pieces

I haven't forgotten the blog or my YouTube channel. Family matters have taken priority for a bit and it has been fairly blustery or very wet over the last few weeks. I'm looking for a break in the weather when its cold, crisp, dry and winds are below 20kts!!

I have a few winter projects on the list.
I thought I would try and make some nice wooden blocks for Arwen, so I'm researching that at the moment.

I'm also about to construct a cordura travel roll for my GoPro cameras. 

Lower rub rails on Arwen need a good sand and re-treatment with Burgess wood sealer. 

On the last trip out, it became clear that the new oars are now in the wrong position and/or I need to alter my seated rowing position. So I am researching the construction of a removable rowing seat, extending the rowlocks height wise so I could row standing up. I might even bite the bullet and try to put a sculling rowlock on the transom deck so I can learn to use one of the oars over the transom as a yuloh - if that is at all possible. 

Finally, with an elbow which is prone to hair line fracturing on its own accord, I wonder whether I have reached the time to try and install some two part tackle purchase on the mainsail halyard. I have no idea how to do this so any suggestions would be most welcome.

Meanwhile I'm delaying emptying Arwen completely for winter as I'm hoping to sneak a trip in the next few weeks.

Roger Barnes has posted another 'Masterclass' video - masterclass on how to create an engaging film as well as everything to do with small boats and sailing.  Such a creative guy. Amazing stuff. Enjoy.


Thursday, 24 October 2019

Charlestown near St Austell

Went for a stroll with a good friend around Charlestown this morning - plenty to see and admire

Four boats in today for maintenance







Harbour entrance looking away across towards Fowey

Winter rigging 


















Sunday, 20 October 2019

The joy in sailing a John Welsford designed navigator

Tim Ingersoll, over the pond, posted a stunning picture of 'his last sail before the fall' on one of the Facebook dinghy sailing forums I follow and he's kindly allowed me to share it here.


It is a stunning image isn't it, encapsulating all that we enjoy about dinghy cruising. Those 'anticipated moments' to come just before we depart the pontoon. The peace and solitude of the outdoors. With the lovely foliage fall colours just beginning to turn and the rippled reflections in the water, it is a serene scene. I just want to get in the boat and sail up that waterway.

Which reminds me that it is almost time to pack Arwen away for the winter and to start some long needed maintenance work.

Before then, I do have a window of opportunity next week for some pleasant day sailing. The forecast promises sunshine, 10C and light northerly winds. With a high tide around 8am, falling from spring to neaps, it should be a lovely day for a quick potter around the sound and an opportunity to try out some new action cam mounting points on top yard and boom aft area. if the sea is calm, then I can try out my new, improved 'floaty cam' as well, my attempt to try and get some shots of  Arwen sailing,  from the sea. The new rudder repairs can be checked out and with luck, no more leaking petrol tank on the outboard.

I can't promise stunning serene photographs like this though. Our trees are starting to turn and leaves are beginning to fall but the colours haven't fully developed yet. On the other hand, some lovely close up shots of the multi coloured cottages of Cawsand and Kingsand in the autumnal sunshine should suffice.

Well done Tim. Thanks for reminding us of what the joys of dinghy sailing in our hidden creeks and backwaters are all about. 

Thursday, 10 October 2019

Rowing a navigator


On my recent trip over to the river Yealm the winds were fickle and so becalmed just off the western end of the breakwater, I had my first opportunity to use Arwen’s new oars. 9’6” in length, built to plans from CLC, my first rowing session didn’t go well.


Several issues emerged in rapid succession. The oars are a little heavy and I haven’t quite positioned the oar leathers and collars correctly. My seating position is definitely an issue. I perch on the aft end of the centre case top, on a cushion to soften the pain of sitting over two deck eyes and the cleat for the jib sheets. In this spot my feet touch the aft cockpit sole but the oars are too high up my chest; change position and they are too low. Too close to my chest. Too far away. Hands overlapping, hands too far apart.


So, some adjustments are needed and I turned to the hive collective on my favourite five Facebook forums – Duckworks, Dinghy Cruising Association, Wooden Boat forum, John Welsford Small Craft and Pocket Yachts and Trailer Sailors.

The first suggestions are obvious and sensible – remove the seat cushion as it could be elevating my position badly; move the deck eyes and jib cleat and sit on the top of the centre case and see if that makes a difference.


Then we got into some technical stuff to consider.

The measurements of seating position, height of oarlocks above the seat and position of the oarlock blocks are apparently critical. A number of people commented that optimal distance from aft edge of seat to the oarlocks should be 13 or 14”. Height of the oarlocks U bend should be around 6 - 8” above the seat level depending on the angle of the oar. Such positions would allow room for looms to swing and dip. Some people suggested building a removable thwart that could be added at seat top level just aft of centre board case. This option wouldn’t necessitate me having to move the centre case jib sheet fittings. I would, of course, have to think carefully about seat design – storage of it etc.


Some people commented that my height might also be an issue and that I should sit upright on the thwart, place the oars on the gunwales and put my hands as far forward as they will go without leaning forward. The rowlocks need to be at the point where the oars are aligned and at right angles to the boat. Then, I’d need to adjust the height of the rowlocks so when the blades are in the water the handles are at a convenient height.  And, most important apparently, I’d need to fit a footrest (or ‘stretcher’) so that I can use my leg and back muscles effectively.  Lack of a footrest loses most of my power. That will take some thinking - a footrest that doesn’t interfere with the sleeping platform boards which get stored on the sole between king plank and thwart side wall.


There is another alternative – sculling instead of oars. There was some discussion about the benefits of sculling but my concern is that trying to find a sculling position off the transom might prove difficult. My understanding is a scull would need to be near the centreline of the boat transom. On my transom is a permanently mounted outboard bracket on the port side, then the rudder head with tiller, the offset mizzen mast and finally the boomkin. Its pretty crowded so unless I could design an offset sculling position of some form….. However, one exceptionally experienced dinghy cruiser suggested that perhaps the oar could be kept in place by a rope loop around the oar and the mizzen mast. He felt there would be no need for a sculling notch since that would cause excessive friction with the oar. 


And then there is the standing up – rowing forward option.

“Rowing while standing--if pushing on the oars--is quite effective and comfortable, once the hang of it is gotten.  I speak from river raft experience, only” said one forum member.

Another, Rick suggested that extended rowlock crutches were easy to make from bronze pipe and rod. The ID of pipe needs to be same as OD of rowlock, then a rod needs to go in the other end with the OD equal to the ID of the pipe and the ID of the rowlock socket. Depending on the geometry and leverage I make, I might need to extend the rod into some kind of step but for most light boats the socket should be plenty strong enough. Um! 


Rick helpfully allowed me to see photographs on his flickr account, some of which are found above and below. Thanks Rick – the images have really helped – much appreciated.



A couple of people pointed out that in going for tall 12” rowlocks, I should make sure I brace and support the base as there will be lots of force generated and through-bolt the oarlock base to the block of wood I’ll use for support. 



 Richard, of ‘Bootstrap’ navigator fame, has his tholes 12” above the gunnel and slightly overboard. He says “Works well but very slow due to wide boat. Biggest issue is - where to store the oars when not in use?”

So, some winter work to do - sorting out the rowing on Arwen.  Last word though goes to Joel of navigator 'Ellie' fame. He carries a 6' paddle and an outboard - no oars - which made me sit up and think....do I really need oars?

Tuesday, 1 October 2019

Can you see what it is yet 2?

Tarrah......it is finished. Can you now see what it is?

Sounds like Playschool or Blue Peter........I liked those programmes as a kid - huge fan - anyway......finally I present one small duffle bag and a ditty tool bag.


I find simple canvas work therapeutic. I have always fiddled with things  I can never keep my hands still - whether I be reading a book, watching TV, listening attentively in a meeting - fiddling with something or doodling constantly - used to drive my teachers mad. In later years, when a teacher myself, I tried to remind myself not to lambaste the kid who incessantly tapped his pen or ruler against the desk - but I did begin to appreciate how irritating I must have been for my teachers!

The ditty tool bag has already been put to use carrying tools and fittings to fix a broken rudder and the skeg brass rubbing strip. The duffle bag will carry a camera and windproof on my little sojourns ashore to the pub when dinghy cruising.


I guess over winter I might try my hand at some rope work as well - a bow fender, some simple mats, and perhaps a whipped handle end for the tiller and the tiller extension handle.

I'm on a roll this week - I fitted a new outboard fuel tank, refitted a warped door, finished the canvas work projects, rebuilt and fitted the back garden gate after storm damage and have been busy sticking the plastic laminate back onto six wardrobe doors, where it has started to lift away.  Her indoors is rattled! She wants to know what I want.....I'm just earning brownie points so I can ask if I can build a Scraps tender for Arwen over the winter!!

The blogs on making the duffle and ditty bags can be found here - start from the bottom and work up the web addresses

https://arwensmeanderings.blogspot.com/2019/08/can-you-see-what-it-is-yet-2.html

https://arwensmeanderings.blogspot.com/2019/08/can-you-see-what-it-is-yet.html

https://arwensmeanderings.blogspot.com/2019/08/making-canvas-sail-ties-storage-bag.html

https://arwensmeanderings.blogspot.com/2019/08/making-sailors-rigging-ditty-bag.html

https://arwensmeanderings.blogspot.com/2019/08/sailors-canvas-riggers-ditty-bag.html

https://arwensmeanderings.blogspot.com/2019/08/how-to-make-sailors-traditional-canvas.html





Sunday, 29 September 2019

Returning home from the River Yealm in the John Welsford designed navigator 'Arwen'

Here is part two of my mini day sail over to the Yealm and back - enjoy.  Part one can be found in a previous post last week.


Saturday, 28 September 2019

outboard maintenance - switching out an integral fuel tank

Those who follow this blog will know recent tribulations with my outboard. A 2011 four stroke MFS 3.5B Tohatsu outboard, it developed a slow seeping leak of fuel from around the cap area when tilted upwards on its bracket.


Infuriatingly slow seepage but enough than a tank would empty over a four hour trip. It wasn't the loss of a litre of fuel that infuriated me rather than the pollution issues. I hadn't noticed it until the last trip so I can't honestly say how long it has been like that - not long I think.


You can see from the photos below where the problem is - initially I thought it was the tank cap seals had rotted away but evidently not!  Around the neck of the cap area are three hairline cracks.  Now what has caused these cracks is probably age. It could be I have unwittingly over-tightened the cap on occasion as well.


A new tank duly arrived - the company I got it from kindly took it out of a new outboard they had. They have another fuel tank on order from Japan and it is currently in transit - so they were reducing my wait by a few weeks, which was good customer service in my eyes.


Initial inspections showed that the swap out should be simple - three bolts hold the fuel tank and there is only one hose attached. And that is it. The tank is attached to a black plastic base.


Removing the fuel in the tank posed me some thinking. In the end I tipped the outboard up to as steep an angle as I could and drained the fuel into a kitchen jug.  I stuffed lots of paper towel under the fuel hose area where it attached to the tank and then slipped the clip down the pipe with pliers. The fuel pipe was wriggled off and the last remnants caught by the paper towel and absorbed.


The three screw bolts were removed and the tank was wriggled off gently and separated from its black base. One brass tube bush surrounding one of the screw nuts shot off into the lawn but I found it!

A few minutes were needed trying to work out what way the black base should be attached to the new tank - I was never that good at jigsaws or tessellations in maths! But we got there in the end.


Tank and black based assembled, it was easy to put in place and secure with the screw nuts. The tube went on easily and was re-secured with the clip. A quick wipe around with paper tool of the base of the engine compartment and all that was left was to put over the neck of the new tank the foam cushioning and then insert the new cap off the old tank. The outboard cover was put back on and that was it.



Back on the outboard dustbin full of water, the engine started first time and chugged away quite happily. After closing the fuel tap the engine continued for a little while longer and then ran out of fuel. The carb is now dry for winter.



Having gained some confidence on this simple task, I am considering draining and replacing the engine and gear oil over winter, along with changing the spark plug as well.