Arwen's meanderings

Hi everyone and welcome to my dinghy cruising blog about my John Welsford designed 'navigator' named Arwen. Built over three years, Arwen was launched in August 2007. She is a standing lug yawl 14' 6" in length. This blog records our dinghy cruising voyages together around the coastal waters of SW England between 2009 and 2025.
Arwen has an associated YouTube channel so visit www.YouTube.com/c/plymouthwelshboy to find our most recent cruises and click subscribe.
Although 'Arwen' has now been sold to another family and is sailing in new water, this blog will remain a source of inspiration and information for those interested in dinghy cruising and sailing the local waters around Plymouth Sound. So, continue to drop us a comment or ask a question and happy sailing and fair winds to you. Steve and Arwen
Steve and Arwen

Wednesday, 27 July 2011

the remaining film clips of Tuesday's sail up to the Lynher

Here is Part 2 'Mashfords boat yard to Wilson beach'. Hopefully the text is a little larger.



Some of the beautiful scenery on the Cornish side

 
This is the final clip Part three: up to Jupiter Point and the return.


An old lifeboat up at Mashford's yard in Cremyll

Steve

I was going to tie up here (illusions of grandeur on my part for Arwen) but the seagulls expression suggested that I should forget that idea and go elsewhere!


some video clips.......

I found another video clip of Jaunty, Dave P's old navigator. You can view it here



The first of my 'Arwen up the Tamar' videos can be viewed here



Part 1 from Barn Pool to Mashford's boatyard


...or if the captions are too small on the clip above, you can access it on Youtube - search for 'Part 1 Barns Pool to Mashford's. Sorry about the poor quality in places but my beloved Sanyo Xacti CA-9 waterproof camera has died and I'm doing these videos on a small samsung digital camera instead.

Below are the tracks of my outward and return legs up to Jupiter Point yesterday.

Outward leg up the Tamar: the wind was blowing anywhere from NW to NE and so made for some interesting sailing!


by the time I came to do the return leg, the wind had shifted around to east or south east.....so I was tacking back as well!!

reflections.........

All totalled up - the GPS says I covered 19nm.......the actual straight distance is around 9nm.......so double the distance because of the wind shifts, constant tacking and probably some poor lines of sail by me!  Still enjoyed it though. More videos to follow tomorrow............


and a quick shot of the new lazy jacks before the sail is hauled up and trimmed
It is a single piece of rope that starts tied off on the boom, runs up the port side of the sail, through the mast band loop and then back down the starboard side of the sail to a tiny pulley block on the sprit boom. Then it runs back up and through another pulley block which had been tied into the lazy jack, before descending back to the sprit boom. A new tube cleat has to be added on the boom for the rope end to go through. I haven't trimmed the rope to length yet either.  By pulling on the rope end, the sprit boom lifts until it is about 4' 6" above  the thwart/centrecase.

Steve 

Tuesday, 26 July 2011

beating up wind........



I think they call it beating upwind..........having to head into the wind relentlessly...........well that is what I did today. The wind came straight down the river Tamar from a north westerly direction force 3 rising to force 4. A gloriously sunny day and it was fun.



There is so much to see on the lower Tamar......herons plodding under the low hanging boughs of oak; little tugs scurrying between basins 1 and 2 in the dockyard; moored frigates; submarines being decommissioned. 



 The 'grockle boats' (grockle - cornish for tourist!!) with their loudhailer commentaries squawk loudly across the waves. Sunken old barges lying in the shallows, rusting hulk trawlers laid up on moorings, navy lighters moored fore and aft.



Of course, you need to concentrate! The Police boats are very active in this area, peering into every quay, basin and bay. They scrutinise everything including me!  You have to be careful negotiating the Torpoint Ferry crossing. They come from both directions but at differing speeds and slipping between them is all a matter of timing!



And then there are the hidden little piers and quays hidden between dense oak trees; today the preserve of holidaying teenagers.......running and jumping with huge whoops and hurrays and ending in the Tamar with colossal splashes. Some are fishing, a few have lit fires to cook mackerel on.


Devils point at the mouth of the Tamar with Mayflower marina on the left

Best of all is the entertainment afforded by the Royal Navy in the Lynher at Jupiter Point training base. Lots of ribs with new recruits chucking bright orange buoys overboard to yells of 'Man overboard'; a nominated person pointing at the buoy whilst the helmsman desperately steers around to come alongside the unsuspecting floating buoy.


The Cremyll Fort battery at Mt. Edgecumbe

On HMS Brecon, an awning covers the foredeck underneath which new recruits learn the intricacies of dropping very large chain anchors under the watchful gaze of  NCO's and Petty officers.  Some lucky recruits get to race at high speed up and down the Lynher practising high speed turns whilst trying not to empty their colleagues into the briny. Others repeatedly come alongside pontoons over and over again until the manoeuvres become routine.


Barn Pool, a popular picnic anchorage

The only fly in the ointment of a perfect day was my little outboard. it keeps cutting out when you increase the speed above a certain point. It doesn't matter where you place the choke lever.....it cuts out!  It needs a visit to the outboard doctor!


The Royal William Yard, the old Victualling yard at the time of Nelson

Some short films of today and more photos to come tomorrow. Today, we covered upwards of 15nm; average speed was 3.2kts; top speed was 5.4 kts.





The Edgecumbe Arms, on the Cornish side at Cremyll, where a foot ferry disgorges day trippers from Stonehouse, Plymouth, on the opposite bank



One of the tourist boats which run 1 hr dockyard tours departing from the Barbican in Plymouth



One of the old dockyard sheds and King Billy - more about him tomorrow






I'm not sure but I think this looks very like 'Spirit of Mystery', the boat that Pete Goss, his Son and a relative sailed all the way to Australia a couple of years ago


an iconic landmark in Plymouth, the Devonport pagoda flats


the frigate complex at Devonport Dockyards

The Torpoint vehicle Ferry between Torpoint and Plymouth



nice old lifeboat with the very famous Mashford's boat yard behind


HMS Somerset - I saw her last week entering the sound



More tomorrow with some short film clips and more details about the sail

Steve

Monday, 25 July 2011

tomorrow........options, options

High tide is 1440 and its around 4.9m. so low tide will be around 8.40am.  The wind is supposed to be from west or north west  force 3 or 4; the weather is 40% cloud cover but temps in afternoon of 22C. sea state will be smooth and visibility moderate.
So.......options - well heading up the Tamar is possible although when turning west into the Lynher - it will be directly into the wind! Lots of tacking then!
Alternatively, a sail out past Penlee point and around Rame Head is also an option - a more open coast passage and against the incoming tide but possible! Would make the wind come over the starboard side - close haul and broad reach for much of the way..........

I'll decide tomorrow. Either way, just being out on the water will be fun

Steve

Sunday, 24 July 2011

The Somerset landlubbers

Joined me on Arwen today. My brother in-law and sister in-law have been trying to get out on Arwen for a couple of years but whenever they've managed to make it down here, the weather or tides have been against us.



"Are you sure we want to go out in a boat with this man darling?"

Today, however, things fell in place even if the weather didn't quite go our way. High tide was 12.30 ish, a neap tide and winds were variable between 3 - 8 kts from west (although the direction shifted frequently). 

With all the changes made recently I've got rigging time down to 20 minutes; the topping lift makes hoisting and dropping sail a breeze; I just need to learn to keep a tidier boat.  Launching at high tide gave us plenty of depth and so we set off , hoisting sails in Jennycliffe Bay on the eastern side of Plymouth Sound.

The wind was fickle - dropping and rising every few minutes. we were only going for a short trip and so under the helmanship of my brother-in-law, we pottered off towards the breakwater whilst he got the hang of steering by tiller (in other words the boat turns in the opposite directon to the way you pull the tiller!!).  He's a clever guy and leather craftsman and and soon picked up the hang of it. He has that sort of  'problem solving' logic. My sister-in-law, another clever and talented soul, was content to pull jib sheets and take in the views.  We headed across to Cawsand and then curtailed that reach as Brittany Ferries came into view around the western end of the breakwater.


Heading back in to Sutton Pool

We were only out for a short trip and 1 hr 40 mins shot by quickly. I was able to give a little history about the forts around the sound and a little sailing instruction about tacking and points of sail. dropping sails just off Mountbatten breakwater, we motored back into the Cattedown. We didn't freeze, capsize or drown so I think my in-laws were fairly relieved although they are both good fun, pretty laid back and take everything in their stride.There was one heart stopping moment when the motor stalled and cut out twice. Judicious use of the choke and low revs nursed the engine back to the pontoon at QAB marina, where I discovered that seaweed had wrapped itself around the prop in an ever tightening grip. Tomorrow I'll stick the motor in the water filled bin out on the back decking and start it up to just check nothing has been strained.



Warping her along the pontoon

It was a really nice sail with good company and well worth the two year wait.

and the end of another trip


Hopefully will be sailing up the Tamar and up the Lynher on Tuesday.  I posted on the Lynher, way back last year and you can read about it here............http://arwensmeanderings.blogspot.com/2010/05/creek-crawling-up-lynheranother-summer.html 
It's a sort of test run before I phone Dad and get him down to sail up the Tamar to Calstock in mid august when the tides are springs and fall right for such an adventure/

I just wish we could get good winds and SUNSHINE!!

Steve

Friday, 22 July 2011

a nice day on the water

I've had a nice day on the water with a good friend. He's an extraordinarily talented and experienced sailor who started me off on the boat building lark!  Within minutes of raising Arwen's sails, he'd suggested some subtle adjustments and all of a sudden - the top yard was going almost to the main halyard sheave; the sail had set the best it has done all year and we were pottering 'quite nicely' thank you.

Now I know that this was in part also due to some adjustments. The topping lift works nicely - I just need to move it further aft on the sprit boom. The new outhaul arrangement discussed in a previous post worked a treat. It flattened the sail base nicely and tensioned it so that it was no more than 15 inches from the boom. I was able to loosen it easily in light winds giving a more 'bellied' lower bit. I now just want to alter it so that I can run the outhaul halyard down the mast front; down through the deck and back along the side of the centre case so that I can alter it without having to move forward.

We sailed across to Cawsand (had to motor sail some of it because the winds just dropped away to nothing) where we dropped anchor, had 'breakfast' and admired the four or five old wooden boats safely anchored there. These were all 30 - 40' in length - old gaffers. Beautifully maintained, they are gathering for the classic boat rally next weekend.

Sadly, I have no photographs - sorry. This is because my beloved Sanyo Xacti CA9 waterproof camera has given up the ghost. It has died. Lifeless other than a mournful flashing light. No screen shots, nothing, not a flicker. I've done everything including buying new batteries but to no avail.  Well funds are short and so it will not be replaced for quite sometime. I have a non waterproof camera which takes good quality video and so that will have to suffice........and just as I'm planning to sail up the Tamar and down to Fowey. Rats, rats and rats again!

Departing Cawsand, we drifted around for a bit, avoided the outgoing Brittany ferry and then finally found some breeze. Not much but sufficient to have us going down the south side of the breakwater at 3.2 kts average. we passed cormorants, shags and the odd gannet or two.  We watched HMS Somerset come in past the western end of the breakwater and laughed when we heard them politely, but clearly somewhat miffed, call the Plymouth Longroom to enquire where their police escort boat was. Found it even funnier when the Longroom seemed a little surprised that it wasn't there!  


HMS Somerset: copyright carol-jon-son

 The wind died just as we went through the eastern gap between breakwater and Fort Bovisand..........not helped by a stiff outgoing tide!  We then caught the breeze again along the inside of the breakwater across to the fort passing Gold Rover one of the Royal Fleet Auxiliary ships swinging at a mooring. 


RFA Gold Rover: copyright jdurston

HMS Somerset continued down the eastern side of the sound along Smeaton's Pass (one of the deep water channels), before curving around to go along the Hoe and then turning starboard into the Tamar. My friend helmed Arwen across to the western side of Drakes island, past the antisubmarine traps and expertly slotted her between the 'Bridges' (the deep water narrow channel) before we came to a dead stop - no wind and outgoing tide. In fact we started drifting backwards. well with increasingly heavy rain showers and no wind, we decided that was it for the day and slowly motored back to QAB. The sails dropped nicely between the lazy jacks to be tied up. because it was low tide we were at the bottom of the slip and there wasn't much room to get alongside the pontoon. This is because half the small space available was taken up by a lovely steam launch. Called 'Annie' and about 14' long, she had been salvaged and restored with a LPG condensing boiler and was on her new maiden launch. A lovely restoration with three very excited and proud men fussing around her and rightly so.

It was a nice day. My friend is great company knowing when to talk and when to just sit in companionable silence. The weather was mixed but time passed nicely and there was plenty to see.

Top speed was 3.4kts. Distanced travelled is shown on the google earth image below.  About 11 nautical miles in all.  Wind was variable, never more than about 5 kts, from NW, NE and S...truly variable direction.

Our track, part sailed, part motored


Well, hopefully, some more sailing next week and I need to arrange with my Dad when he's going to come down and sail up the Tamar with me and overnight camp. More about these plans as they develop.

steve

Wednesday, 20 July 2011

I was looking over Gavin's intheboatshed.net site and he reminded me that the Plymouth Classic boat rally is back on.

The actual website for the Rally is here at http://www.plymouthclassics.org.uk/

I note that some friends just down the road have entered their classic boat. They have spent a huge time restoring it and it will be good to see them out there.

I have already checked that I can launch from QAB since the classic boat rally is in the same week as the port of Plymouth regatta http://www.plymouthregatta.com/  so its going to be very busy out there. I'd better brush up on my knowledge of 'rules of the road'. Up until now I've relied on the knowledge that when on the starboard tack I have right of way!!  Suspect I'll need to know a little more than that!
I'll do a post and try and get some pictures posted. I'm away for the first two days of the rally so won't see all the boats moored in Sutton Harbour.

We are also very lucky to be hosting the Americas' Cup  in September. I'm gutted because I will be teaching each day whilst these amazing boats and crews will be racing at top speeds only 25 metres from the Hoe foreshore! You can find out more at this site http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport1/hi/sailing/12936177.stm

I know there is some racing on the Saturday's - I'll be there from sunrise booking my space on the Hoe at the cafe with the fantastic views! Family life is on hold on those weekends. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity.

The weather is beginning to improve and Friday is looking hopeful for a sail. High tide is at 10.45am. Winds are predicted 5 -8kts variable, starting from NW but drifting around to NE. There is a high pressure system building over the northern Atlantic which should block out some depressions for the weekend. You can see weather forecasts at http://www.harbourexchange.com/weather/windguru-forecasts/plymouth-sound/ and also at http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/sw/sw_forecast_weather.html
Over the next few days I'm going to pick my target dates for sailing down to Fowey and also sailing up the Tamar with Dad. I'll obviously share plans as they develop.

Monday, 18 July 2011

in mourning

it is the end of an era and when we walked out of the cinema last night my son and I did shed a tear. It has been a huge part of our lives for ten years. We've read and re-read each book; we've watched and re-watched the films. We queued with 1000's of others at midnight to get the first copies...the queue stretching up and around the main Plymouth shopping streets, all dressed as wizards and witches. we have mourned characters who have died in valour.

Harry Potter has come to an end. Both my children were 5 and 9 when it started. They are the Harry Potter generation! we are very sad today....something we shared as a family has ended.

Steve

Thursday, 14 July 2011

sorry for the lack of posts


all lined up ready to go

....it's the end of term....and it's been a long term! However, this week has been activities week and we have been doing watersports at our local centre - canoeing, sailing, kayaking and bizarrely abseiling and rock climbing.


sailing Hawk 20's

We break up next week and on the cards are
a) a sail up the Tamar to Calstock with an overnight onboard camp
b) the Plymouth regatta week, which I will post on
c) the classic boat rally which I will be sailing amongst
d) a sail expedition down to Fowey and back


and here is the boat that deliberately cut up one of our Hawks - clearing it by less than a boat length!

....so there is still plenty to come.......


having a breather on mountbatten beach
Steve

playing water quidditch

Tuesday, 5 July 2011

Well, as you've noticed, I didn't get out this weekend.  It was nice weather, don't get me wrong, but Son asked me to help him with reassembling his vespa engine.....and we ran into some problems with it....and the gears don't want to function properly......and so we had to take it all apart again....and...........

On the bright side, we did get it fixed....we think!  Thanks to superb help from the vespa smallframes forum which is rather similar to the one run by John Welsford and his team! The vespa boys saved us. What is great about this forum is within minutes Jonny had disassembled his engine, taken photographs and put them up for us to follow step by step - literally within 10 minutes of us posting a plea for help. Now is that service or is that service?

A fellow teacher at school saved us on the front hub nut saga. We managed after 14 weeks of searching worldwide, to find the exceptionally hard to get hold of left handed outside threaded bearing nut!!  Sadly, the inner hub thread into which it had to screw was shot! However, a technology teacher at school came to our rescue and managed to re thread a left hand 1.5 inch diameter hole! Whats more, he even made a special tool for us to help screw it in and out.........there are so many generous people out there. At times it really does take your breath away!

So here is a photograph of the partially reassembled engine for 'Stacey' ('Stacey'! What in heavens made him come up with that name...is it some secret teenage fantasy woman on WoW?). The rest of the reassembly happens in two weeks time. Grandad, if you are reading this blog, you'd better be on stand by!

oow! Isn't she clean inside.....probably not working...but very clean!


new seals - all greased and correctly inserted


the 'reputedly' toughest job, putting the clutch basket back in - 30 seconds, no honestly....30 seconds
It took 25 minutes to get out when stripping the engine!!!


the problem area........there should be a gap between first and second gear at the bottom
....and there isn't......
and yes, they are in the right order and in the correct way up......
so this is what is currently baffling smallframe enthusiasts....where has our 'gap' gone... and why has it gone 'walkabout'?


On the boating front, well I managed to get lots of jobs done in between coaching son on vespa mechanics (coaching really isn't the right way to describe how I was there with a laptop, website, Haynes manual, DVD about vespa engine strip downs and various pieces printed off the Internet......more like sheer panic!) and sorting out the gardening chaos left by the Missus. 

Arwen has a new lazy jack/topping lift system. The boom has had all its fittings removed and placed on the correct side (again don't ask, please!).  The outhaul has been altered so that there is a longer length between blocks and I've returned to a fixed eye screwed to the mast for its attachment point. The reefing ropes have all been trimmed to the correct length.

So, all being well, I should be able to reef from right next to the mast, more easily; the boom should be able to go back further aft and, oh I forgot, sorry, I moved the attachment point on the top yard further forward and lower down the yard so it should pull higher up the mast.  Watch this space because all being well I hope to be sailing next weekend!

In the meantime, Joel has been taking 'Ellie' on her second voyage with some very impressive statistics. I won't steal his thunder. Go visit him and see his news and video clip at

http://navigatorjoel.blogspot.com/2011/07/ellies-second-voyage.html

He really does put me and poor Arwen to shame. My I say in defence of my beloved boat - it isn't her fault. Her skipper is an idiot!

Osbert has posted a fascinating article about his boat tent at http://forthsailoar.osbert.org/boat-tent-an-elegant-but-damp-solution

if you are thinking of making a boat tent, read his report. I didn't realise that John had made plans for the boat tent for a walkabout available....I wonder if he's drawn up plans for a navigator tent?  Must check with him.

Whilst surfing the net, as one does, late at night, when four hours of A Level preparation, leave your brain numb and non-functioning, I suddenly discovered photos of Arwen on a small boatbuilding company website, here in the UK. They are backed by JW and sell his designs, so I have no problem with this......there are other photos of other navigators too. If it helps sell more plans for John, then that's grand. The navigator is a fantastically designed boat. i wish all those about to build or in the middle of a build sincere good luck. have fun guys, enjoy and happy sailing when you finally launch your dream boat!  you can see the pics at http://www.fyneboatkits.co.uk/plans/sailing/welsford-navigator/  There are one or two of Arwen completed and several of her in cut out form and being glued up.

Cheers
Steve