How does one deal with a wobbly bit on a transom bracket? A 300mm long x 3mm across crack in the wood which wobbles under engine vibrations caused some consternation last week when motoring back for an afternoon appointment across a rather choppy, windswept Hamoze against a building spring tide. My how that wind shifted around and built unexpectedly!
Having just repaired and strengthened the transom bracket a few months ago over winter, it is clear I am both a poor designer and carpenter.
Anyway, this morning, several cuppas were consumed whilst I worked out the least amount of work needed to make a better job of it this time around. I have concluded that a new piece of 9 mm epoxied and screwed onto the back of the broken bracket bit, along with some galvanised steel corner brackets to reinforce corners will do the job.
So, the ply panel has been measured and cut with curves cut out along its top where the outboard bracket tensioning screws will sit. The paint has been chiselled off the back of the broken piece so that there is a bare surface for the epoxy to adhere to. Tomorrow epoxy gets mixed, the new piece gets clamped and screwed on. Epoxy fillets at the corners and then the whole thing is left to dry. After sanding, there will be three coats aluminium primer, 3 coats Prekote primer and then 3 coats Toplac.
It should all be fixed by the end of next week. A mildly irritating but necessary lesson about navigating upper creek channels and submerged logs!!
On a brighter note, the new sleeping panel worked a treat. Built over the winter it comprises two uprights which are made of two ply squares which slot together to form an upright cross affair.
Across these two sets of 'X's lies the flat sleeping board. Everything is cut to shape and contour to fit nicely in one side of the aft foot well.
It all collapses flat pack style to fit neatly on the floor, strapped in all secure. Thanks to Joel Bergen for this brilliant design - appreciated Joel - thanks buddy.
Having just repaired and strengthened the transom bracket a few months ago over winter, it is clear I am both a poor designer and carpenter.
Anyway, this morning, several cuppas were consumed whilst I worked out the least amount of work needed to make a better job of it this time around. I have concluded that a new piece of 9 mm epoxied and screwed onto the back of the broken bracket bit, along with some galvanised steel corner brackets to reinforce corners will do the job.
So, the ply panel has been measured and cut with curves cut out along its top where the outboard bracket tensioning screws will sit. The paint has been chiselled off the back of the broken piece so that there is a bare surface for the epoxy to adhere to. Tomorrow epoxy gets mixed, the new piece gets clamped and screwed on. Epoxy fillets at the corners and then the whole thing is left to dry. After sanding, there will be three coats aluminium primer, 3 coats Prekote primer and then 3 coats Toplac.
It should all be fixed by the end of next week. A mildly irritating but necessary lesson about navigating upper creek channels and submerged logs!!
On a brighter note, the new sleeping panel worked a treat. Built over the winter it comprises two uprights which are made of two ply squares which slot together to form an upright cross affair.
the sleeping platform itself - slots just under the thwart coamings
Across these two sets of 'X's lies the flat sleeping board. Everything is cut to shape and contour to fit nicely in one side of the aft foot well.
here are the two 'X' pieces - ignore the piece with the semi circular curve in it - that is a deck mast rest for transporting mast. The two 'X's' un-slot and collapse flat. The flat board rests on them. All is cut in such a way that the board fits under the thwart coaming lips under tension.
It all collapses flat pack style to fit neatly on the floor, strapped in all secure. Thanks to Joel Bergen for this brilliant design - appreciated Joel - thanks buddy.
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