Monday, 12 July 2021

Boat trailer woes

 It is easy to forget with a wooden boat that not all your time should be spent touching up boat dings and scratches. Trailers need TLC too. 😟

On our last trip out several weeks ago, Arwen's trailer lost a roller. I only noticed it when I went to retrieve the trailer from the top of the slipway to haul Arwen out of the water. One of the big blue and white wobble rollers had come off. 

You can see why I lost a roller. 
The washers have corroded badly and I haven't been diligent in trailer management.

In forlorn hope, I sprinted won the slipway to see if it had washed down in the tide and collected somewhere at the bottom in the little pool area, but sadly not. I searched the slipway and the patches of seaweed on it. Nothing.

Now I had a problem. The wobble roller arm was uneven and the empty bit was sticking up. There would be no way I could get Arwen back onto the trailer without that arm doing serious damage to her hull. I solved the problem by lashing it down tight, but this of course, elevated the other side of the arm. 

After hauling Arwen back onto the trailer, as I was flushing out the wheels, bearings and rollers with the slip way hose pipe, I took a closer look under her hull.

What a disaster. There was a deep scratch, no gouge, down her starboard side bottom plank. Clearly the roller had come off during the launch and the damage had been done. In my keenness to depart, I hadn't noticed! 😢

Back at home, I decided to try and put a spare roller back on. Stupid idea of course because the boat was still on the trailer but I'm slightly caught here because I'm worried if I launch Arwen again the wobble arm will do more damage! 

A deep concern. The torsional suspension stub hubs are completely corroded. More worrying is the the box section that the hub fits into (between rubber bungs) is also showing rust. 

Having jacked the trailer up and rested it in a stack of concrete blocks, I also took a look at the wheels. My worst suspicions were confirmed. Turn the wheel and it just rumbled. And, worse still, there was slight wobble play in the wheel on its hub and it wasn't anything to do with loose stud nuts. The wheel rims were showing signs of rust and flaky paint.  Below, Arwen's hull had some dings caused by pressure points where wood had rested awkwardly on rollers; there were worn streaks where the grey base paint was showing through and in places the top coat was flaking off as well. 

You can see the problem of these rollers. They are just not quite positioned correctly. 

The rear keel roller wasn't turning properly. The forward keel roller had shifted its position somehow. 

More concerning is when I reversed Arwen back up onto our sloping drive way, it took me 30 minutes to disengage the trailer hitch off the tow ball. It just wouldn't open and I had to reverse and move forward a few inches back and forth several times until it would disengage. First time this has happened! 😱

Trailer TLC - it is vital and this is a tough lesson to learn. The trailer is thirteen years old and I had it serviced two years ago. 

And I also noticed yesterday that one of the little black keel side rollers is also MIA

Arwen's trailer was never designed for her. It was an off the shelf one and the best I could find and afford at that time when we had other pressing family financial commitments. 

So, now it is decision time. Do I refurbish the trailer or invest in a new one?

Refurbishment:

  • the galvanised trailer is pretty sound although where the hubs join is showing rust but I think it will clean up and is fairly secure
  • new wheels rims and tyres
  • new torsional suspension hubs, bearings and new rubber bungs
  • two new keel rollers
  • one new rear keel roller which better lines up and allows the bow to rise up onto the trailer
  • convert it to bunks/skids - so two new skids
  • will need to remove all the roller arms and wobble wheels
  • will need to buy/borrow/hire an angle grinder because things have rusted on firmly!
  • have limited space to do this - on a residential road which has a local small bus service
  • will need to get Arwen off the trailer and secure somewhere for a day or two
  • need to research how to change torsional stub hubs, how to renew trailer hub bearings and whether I can fit bearing buddies
  • the one last issue is the rear keel roller is a bolted on one. The two roller support lugs are an integral part of the trailer frame, so I will need to angle grind these off 
  • disadvantages of the current trailer - I have to dip the wheel bearings every time to get Arwen on and off the trailer
  • advantages of current trailer - its rollers and one shove and she is off; once the bow is on the rear keel roller correctly, she is easy to winch on single handed
Buying a new trailer: ðŸ˜•
  • could get it customised to better fit Arwen's hull shape. (Her hull has slight rocker on it, what some would unkindly call a 'banana bottom'. Basically she has a flat middle to front section but the aft section rises slightly towards the transom as does the skeg).
  • I'm not 100% sure but suspect, that bunks/skids would be better for this boat bottom than wobble rollers on arms. (It is a chine boat and so the rollers are difficult to get placed correctly). 
  • possible things to consider
    • break back design
    • 8" or 10" wheels (8" ones would make the boat lower when launching?)
    • using support bunks 
    • several keel rollers to take the main weight of the boat
    • lower winch post so that the bow sprit goes over the top
    • a winch post with a groove in the rubber snubber so that the bobstay can be left on (is this possible?)* 
    • metal wheel arches*
    • meeting European trailer requirements
    • sealed bearings or suitability for bearing buddies (even better AL-KO bearings?)
    • better attachment of hubs to trailer via bolt plates
    • adjustable skeg and bow keel rollers
    • better lead on keel roller arrangement
    • walkway*
    • spare wheel holder*
    • whole trailer cannot exceed 6m due to driveway restrictions
    • galvanised or...?
    • stainless steel fixings, bolts, nuts etc? 
    • side guide poles*
    • removable lighting board
    • not a pressed steel hitch
*optional additions

My requirements for a trailer 😀
  • easy to launch and retrieve in a variety of tidal and wind conditions, in differing water depths and on differing gradient ramps
  • easy to tow long distances
  • doesn't damage the hull
  • can carry outboard on transom bracket in its upright, vertical position safely
  • better quality bearings
  • last another 20 years with a better annual maintenance regime imposed by me!!


So what weight does the trailer need to support? 
Oh my what a question to try and answer because truthfully I have no idea. 😟

I am guessing that Arwen empty but with masts, yard, boom and sails probably weighs 380lbs. I built the coamings slightly higher; I put in bigger coaming backs into the boat. I used sustainably source Brazilian mahogany for rub rails, centre case top and centre case area leading to mast slot.  Probably used far more epoxy than I needed to! John's website suggests 310lb.

When she is loaded up for a five day dinghy cruise, well then we have to consider lost. The two anchors with chain and rode probably weigh in around 40lbs or so. The outboard is around 40lbs or so. Galley boxes, spares, clothing, bedding, food, water, fuel, warps, anchor lines, safety gear; so much but never have I weighed it.



So summing up, I am reckoning that the boat fully laden with all gear will be somewhere around 500lbs+ 
So, I have been looking at un-braked trailers which will carry a laden weight between 280 - 350kgs. That surely must cover me with no problem at all. 

I have contacted several boat trailer manufacturers so far, giving them details of the issues, an article about John's navigator design (with dimensions, measurements and photos), details of the issues of my old trailer and my restrictions and potential trailer desires. 

Three have got back to me thinking they could do something. Two recommended bunks. One recommended rollers. two said ten inch wheels; one recommended 8 inch wheels. One said break back design; two don't offer that. 

All three warned me stocks are low given people went bonkers during the pandemic buying or building small boats! I could be waiting for several weeks if I order now! So delivery end of August at earliest.

I've listed websites and some of the trailers they have suggested could be adapted to meet needs. Most were recommended or mentioned to me by various members of the Dinghy Cruising Association.
 If you have any thoughts on any of them, please, please, please do drop me your advice in the comment box below. 

PDMS trailers





White trailers







So I finish this initial blog on a set of questions and a dilemma.

The questions:

  1. refurbish existing trailer (cost around £400 if I do it myself; £700 if I get someone to do it for me) OR take the plunge and buy a new one better suited 
  2. which are better for Arwen - bunks or rollers; 8" or 10" wheels; fixed or break back? 
  3. material - galvanised, steel, aluminium? 
  4. if bunks - what kind of bunk surface material is best? 
The dilemma:

The slipway I use is five miles away in the car. If I lash the roller arm back down, can I risk doing a few day launches with wheels where the hub bearings have gone? I've certainly done a few this year with the bearings in that state, but not realising it at the time. 

Phew! 


5 comments:

  1. I am surprised the trailer got into this condition. Here in NZ road trailers have to have a current 'Warrant of Fitness'. You take your trailer to an inspection station and it's looked at by an inspector (usually a mechanic) and given a WOF if everything is ok. There are fines for not having an up to date WOF - fair enough I say - keeps everyone safe on the roads.

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  2. Can't you just jack the boat up, with a car jack, and fit a new roller?

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  3. Hi Alastair. No - I can obviously do that to change the hubs although that is proving an issue since I have struggled to find any online at the moment which dont have bolt plates welded to a box assembly bit. (these wont fit my trailer).

    Any car jack I have wont lift the boat sufficiently to get at the roller easily so I will need to take it to a ramp, launch Arwen and then work on the roller there.


    Alden, Good idea for trailers here. She was serviced the year before last. I think the issue is she is stored on a steep driveway, out in all weathers. Although I grease the bearing backs before putting her in the water and then wash them afterwards, it just doesn't work. The bearings need replacing every other year. However, my main concern is the spindle hub sections. I think that in previous services, I hadn't noticed that they didnt replace the hub spindle - just the hub assembly. I just cant get any idea of how corroded they are. Bits flake off when pushed with a screwdriver but only the surface layers. The interior seems pretty solid.

    My problem is I cannot work on the driveway and have to put the boat on the road which is used by a bus service. In the evenings everyone parks either side of the road. In addition our daughter and husband are living with us for a couple of months waiting for their new house to go through so we have an extra car and work van to try and park as well.

    Basically, if I work on her on the road and something goes wrong and I cant get her back up onto the drive we are stuffed and our council are not the most forgiving or understanding about roadside obstructions on pathways!

    It is a conundrum which is causing me hassle at the moment I must say.

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  4. Hi Steve,
    I have a Wolstenholme Mallard dinghy (here in Australia). I was in the same position as you last year with a trailer which was no longer legal or safe. I chose not to repair or replace. There is a third option, which is the one I took! I kept scanning gumtree etc until I found what I was after. A horrible little boat which nobody was interested in, which however, was resting on a reasonable trailer. In fact I got real lucky in that I found a horrible boat resting on a trailer in zero rust perfect condition. He wanted AU$600 or AU$500 without the old the motor. I offered him AU$450 (240 pounds) without the motor and he accepted. I then put the horrible old boat on my horrible old trailer and sold them on Gumtree for $200. So I then had one of these https://www.seatrailsa.com.au/catalogue/galvanised-boat-trailers/tinny-trailer in perfect condition. I ditched those hard skids, put an extra keel roller on it and some treated pine sleepers with timber carpet covered bunks, and a new winch post. All up it cost me just 241 pounds for a trailer modified for my boat and in perfect condition. Would upload photos if there was an option here. If you have the time, start scanning those second hand adds, never know what you will find :-) cheers, Paul

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  5. Hello Paul - how you doin?
    We have just gone down that road but I came to the conclusion that it would end up being too much hassle and I dont have the storage room if I couldnt then sell the boat on the old trailer. Hence I dismissed the idea. As you will see from my next blog post....I have decided on a new trailer and had a very profitable morning discussing bespoke design with the trailer manufacturing owner.
    At the end of the day, I've had this trailer for 14 years and with a nod to due conscience, I'm not sure I'd be happy at anyone towing this trailer away further than 5 miles from the house.
    God idea though and I idled away a couple of hours on ebay , gumtree and some boat dealer websites having a look.

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Thanks for taking a look at my blog. All comments and advice are welcome - drop me a few lines. You can always find videos about Arwen at www.youtube.com/c/plymouthwelshboy. Look forward to hearing from you.
Steve