If you search a few posts back you will see that I built a new outboard engine maintenance stand. I based it on plans off the internet but made minor adjustments and so promised to post the new sets of measurements. And here they are..........
Sheet one: the basic design, notes and measurements
The castor wheels I used were 75mm diametre - to carry a weight of 50kg, each wheel with its own little brake
Sheet two: assembling the upright section
Sheet three: component pieces and their measurements
I used timber stock 4" x 2" throughout (10cm x 5cm)
Below is the finished stand with my four stroke 3.5hp Tohatsu standard shaft outboard on it. Meanwhile I am now researching YouTube and the internet for articles on how to service your four stroke small outboard. I will post details of what I find in the next post.
After that - its getting down to business and servicing my own outboard - engine and gear oil change; impeller change; spark plug change and stripping down the carb.
What could possibly go wrong given my past history?
Acknowledgements:
The original plans were drawn by D Hayes Jr and were available on Photobucket. I didn't find them there - I found them on a general internet search for 'outboard engine maintenance stand plans.
VG.. tick... :o)
ReplyDeleteWhat were the reasons behind angling back 8' I wonder??
Steve, I've been wondering that too - I tried it out today with water bucket below and frankly I didn't get the 8 degree angle - I had to alter the shaft angle on the motor s the engine kept stalling because it wasn't angled right in the water - like when you go through lumpy seas and sometimes as the outboard lifts out of the water it stalls - i don't get the need for the angle. wish I'd thought about that before constructing it
ReplyDeleteVery puzzling - a lot/most of the home made jobs show the same angled upright so there must be a reason... are they just designed so as to mimic how the engine would be on a transom I wonder? In which case you've already cracked it without knowing it, as you adjusted the angle of the leg to match the imaginary transom....
ReplyDeletemy transom is vertical - so I need to adjust it each time I put it on the stand for testing and then need to remember to readjust it back to how it would be on Arwen's transom bracket!!
ReplyDeleteOne more thing to remember - remembering anything for me, is quite an achievement :)
Yes, not sure about where the 8 degrees came from. Usually it is 12 degrees and that is the angle I used for mine.
ReplyDeleteI will check but suspect I'm closer to that too
ReplyDeleteMost of the weight is in the top of the motor. This is why they tilt it back so the weight doesn’t pull the stand over
ReplyDeletethat makes sense
ReplyDeleteMuch more than the weight is the fact that mounting brackets are designed for the typical transom angle of 14 degrees or so. So by building the stand at 14 degrees the powerhead is vertical for working on it on the stand. The length of the back legs keeps it from being tippy in that direction.
ReplyDelete