The Gran Canaria diaries January 2018: Visiting Puerto Mogan, Gran canaria

https://youtu.be/2n_bRa6Dzik

Puerto Rico to Puerto Mogan

 The plan for the day lay in the hands of ‘Her-indoors’. No driving today. I think she was feeling traumatized after yesterday. That isn’t to say I am a bad driver. I’m not according to her but steep drops, hairpin bends, meeting buses on the bends; well there is only so much a girl can take on one journey. I mean we did nearly die when a red Volkswagen convertible beetle came around a blind bend on a narrow mountain road at about 60mph on our side of the road, which I have to say was rather terrifying given we had a crash barrier and then a 1000’ drop on our side and no room to move into!

So today we caught the bus from Taurito at 8.40am; changed buses 5 kilometres up the coast road at Playa Del Cura and then caught the next bus into Puerto Rico; which proved to be a major disappointment. Don’t get me wrong, it is pretty enough and clean, with a great sandy beach protected by two harbour breakwaters and with a west and east marina. However, it is also hotel and apartment central. The hillsides are just covered with white buildings and it made us appreciate how tiny a resort Taurito really is. Not our cup of the at all so we caught the glass bottomed boat ferry to Port Mogan, a pleasant 30-minute voyage along the coastline hugging the cliffs. 

Glass bottomed is a bit of a misnomer. It is a 10’ x 4’ rectangular hole in the bottom of the boat lined at the bottom with plexiglass through which bog all can be seen. So, if you visit, don’t get conned. It is basically a water taxi ferry and pleasant enough if you accept this. 

The ‘Global’ bus system on the island is pretty efficient but note not so much at a weekend. The normal adherence to published timetables seen throughout weekdays goes out of the window, based on our experiences today. Even one of the bus drivers admitted that it operated ’Spanish timekeeping’ at the weekend. What that means is buses don’t run according to the timetable as accurately as one might hope, so expect lengthy waits

Puerto Mogan is a pleasant, pretty small port. A small protected harbour for tourist boats, visiting yachts and a small fishing fleet, it has a sandy beach between two protective breakwater arms, a promenade with cafes, restaurants and typical seaside tourist shops selling Spanish souvenirs. There is a small shopping centre and then a very and I do mean very pretty marina village.

Whoever designed this should have won some serious architectural awards. Small apartments separated by narrows streets linked with brightly coloured bougainvillea flowers. Simply stunning. Known as ‘little Venice’ because of the canals that link the marina to the fishing port, I’d say this name was stretching it a little. There are two canals basically, which you can’t walk along; nor pass boats through. But that isn’t to detract from what is a tastefully designed, beautiful marina development with palms and old-style canary island architecture.

Above this development on the western slopes of the Barranco lies the old original port village. Think like the steep hillside communities of Rio De Janeiro but smaller, neater and better maintained. White washed houses are built haphazardly up the slope separated by narrow alleyways and steep sets of steps. Behind one community at the very top is an excellent ‘mirador’ or viewpoint affording astounding views across the whole port marina and town.  On the eastern flanks are archaeological sites of the original ancient settlers who first farmed and settled the Barranco. 

Puerto Mogan is a ‘stroll around’ town; easy going without the hassle of trades people and street hawkers although ironically, we saw two street con artists working the three-card trick ruse under a sign which warned tourists to be aware of pick pockets and con artists. All too aware of the sign and the irony, the two con artists made the most of the incongruous situation much to the amusement of all!

Down at the marina berths, sailors set about their chores. The stern to sea wall berthing seen across the Mediterranean, is also seen here and it gives passing tourists a great insight into a working large yacht. On some boats crews were packing up and shipping out, huge duffle bags being packed in the cockpits. On another boat, a crew were winching a fellow crew member up the mast to affect some repairs. Crew were having a brunch with copious amounts of wine in one cockpit, which at 10.30 in the morning seemed a tad early to me; but hey what do I know. I’m a lifelong tea totaller, unlike her indoors, so based on no experience, I am unable to pass comment or judgement. Her indoors seemed to approve so I guess it was an OK time! 

Sat at a corner café, we drank Café con Leche and watched the world go by; people came and went towards the ferry departure point; a man spent time hand feeding the birds; others watched the mullet cruising the crystal-clear waters of the marina.

All in all, it was a pleasant day and if you have the chance, visit Puerto Mogan. You won’t regret it. Picturesque, quaint, charming, all are appropriate adjectives to describe this little town.

Some tips:

It has a pleasant street market every Friday.

Go get a freshly made mojito on a Friday. Watch it be made with freshly pressed sugar cane. It is quite an art and street performance!

The GC-500 between Puerto Mogan and Taurito is out of action – Cerrada – ‘closed’ due to a landslip. This situation has already been running three months, necessitating a longer car or taxi journey up onto the GC1 motorway, eastwards to the next exit where you shoot off down to the roundabout to shoot back onto the GC1 but this time heading west to get to Puerto Mogan! It is a real pain and necessitates a longer bus journey involving a change of buses at Playa del Cura, so make allowances of this.