Turtles and whales

Jose was a Costa Rican with a huge smile, a welcoming handshake, an easy going manner and you just couldn't help but warm to him instantly. He engendered trust. Captain of our boat, we were onboard a fishing boat that could take twelve easily but on this day had only four passengers and three crew.  We boarded via his smaller fishing dory, a well used vessel kept in excellent repair with an ancient yet serviceable Johnson outboard. Jose's main occupation is fisherman and a Scuba diver on his local reef. And what a stunning location, San Jullianno, a small village with three beaches; one, black sand, around the headland to the south. The other two formed two sides of a tombolo with a small island and reef at their seaward end. The archetypal tropical beaches with clean white sands, palm tree lined back shores and the odd tree on the beach under which to sit and chill. Protected by two offshore reefs affording only a narrow entrance the area was a natural harbour, safe to swim in turquoise seas. It had a real 'Robinson Crusoe' feel about it.
Transferring from the small dory onto the deep sea boat under the watchful eye of Antonio, Jose's son, and his friend, took careful anticipation of the swell and timing to catch the uproll. And then a three hour trip along the coast looking for turtles, dolphin and possibly even the rare encounter with humpback or pilot whales.

I have never seen so many turtles in all my life. The surface was covered with them. Swimming out to sea after the arribata of a few days ago, some turtles looked tired from their egg laying endeavours. Others clearly not so tired, their romantic nuptials rudely interrupted by our passing by. Out of the water, clumsy and cumbersome; in the seas, elegant, streamlined and majestic, able to follow the currents and swim down to the deep green depths at speed. We were on the look out for some turtles who didn't mind an encounter with the boat and soon some were found. We drifted to a halt, rolling in the gentle swell alongside some turtles who appeared inquisitive or perhaps just dismissive of us. The aim was simple and the rules very clear. You can enter the water, swim alongside but for only two minutes  and not to cause any stress. If the turtle moves off, you let it go; towards you move away slightly. Some turtles splashed flippers as a warning and we took heed. Others scrutinised us before swimming or diving deep. One allowed a closer scrutiny, its scaly flippers powerfully propelling it along at a slow speed, its head coming to the surface, glinting black eyes watching us. Powerful, bone crushing jaws,almost beak like remained shut. A turtle bite would do some serious harm! That two minutes alongside a turtle swimming in its company was magical and then it was gone. The majesty of this creature cannot be described.

What was to follow just eclipsed it though. A mere 10 metres ahead of the boat a mother humpback whale along with calf emerged. Jose backed off engine and boat so we were 15 m away and gently followed the whales at barely idling speed. Never close than for a few minutes, he'd back off and turn away frequently and then just wait. The whale was in no hurry. It would surface a few metres further on. After the fourth drift by, Jose called time. This was a man who understood whales, had a deep love and respect for them and it shone through. Watching whales close up is a deeply spiritual and humbling experience; it really brings home to you the need for environmental conservation. Wherever we have been in Costa Rica, this environmental awareness has shone through its people as a beacon of hope. It has been deeply moving, impressive and thought provoking. It has give us a deeper appreciation of the work of our own national parks and the need for coastal zone protectorates.

The search for dolphins proved fruitless. Always present,they had taken a day off. We saw wahoo running alongside the boat; shoals of tuna jumping out of the water sending the surface into a seething, bubbling maelstrom; our favourite moment, the little flycatcher bird, three miles offshore hitching a ride on the back of an amicable turtle. What a cool ride back to shore! When Jose discovered I owned a boat and had built it, privileged access was afforded to me and not the rest of the family. I was allowed up onto zone flying bridge to talk boats, electronics and as an extra pay of eyes for dolphin. Despite severe linguistic barriers....in. Pigeon English and Spanish we managed to converse, two mariners with a deep love of the sea and boats; of marine life and pride in our respective children. Below on the foredeck, my children and wife sat back against the bulkhead, dangled their legs over the prow and chilled and chatted with the boys. It doesn't get much better than this; calm seas, slight swell, bright blue skies, coo.ing breeze and the deep blue green of the Pacific Ocean. A stunning undeveloped coastline of sandy beaches, treacherous reefs and coconut palms and forested interiors. Utterly divine.

On the way back we diverted to see an extraordinary sight both fascinating and chilling at the same time. One of Jose's friends was piloting a 20' dory affair close to a reef. Behind hi m was an ancient outboard that had seen better days. Immediately in front mounted across the beam of the boat, a diesel truck engine, pristine in condition chugging away. From within the bowels of this engine emerged a hosepipe, a garden variety type. It stretched away over the transom to float some five boat lengths behind the dory. Surrounding the hosepipe were areas of rising bubbles and then slowly the reality dawned. Thin translucent clear plastic pipes ran at intervals from the main yellow garden hose. Jose through broken English and mime explained that each hose had a diver at the bottom looking for snapper, grouper and lobsters. I reckoned on four divers with plastic pipes in t heir mouths. It is rare that I am speechless but this was one of those moments. I guess scuba gear is expensive, not easily available in this part of the coast and 'necessity is the mother of all invention'. Whatever the case, I had a newfound respect for Jose and the fishermen of San Jullianna. Paski's tours in the Ostinal area of Costa Rica. An awesome morning. Gracias amigos, Pura vida!